Fès (Fez) is one of the four imperial cities of Morocco along with Rabat, Meknes, and Marrakech, but it's the only one to have earned the nickname of Imperial Pearl: in fact, it is the cradle of the country's culture and identity.
What can we say about Fes... it's a real journey back in time and the impact is certainly tough, one way or another: you either love Fes or you hate it. What is certain is that this city evokes intense and often contrasting sensations: in its merits and flaws, it encapsulates the essence of Morocco.
For Enrico and me, it's very difficult to give a definitive judgment: it's certainly an extremely fascinating city, splendid from many points of view, and undoubtedly worth a visit. Fes must absolutely be included in your road trip itinerary in Morocco, if only for the strong experiences you will have there. Let me explain better... it is an ancient city rich in history, incredible architecture, and vibrant and colorful souks, but unlike Marrakech, which has been completely renovated and made tourist-friendly, the medina of Fez has remained exactly as it was 400 years ago..
I won't deny that the impact is really strong, even though I prepared myself in the previous days with Casablanca and Rabat: the medina is an intricate maze of narrow and tall alleys, at times suffocating and somewhat frightening, especially at dusk.
The GPS doesn't work three times out of four, and getting lost is a daily occurrence, something I do not recommend, especially at night (speaking from experience). The tanneries, one of the city's main attractions, are very controversial: visually beautiful, but an obscene and inhumane spectacle that tests even the least sensitive stomachs...
I was very grateful to arrive in Fez after spending a few days in Morocco and acclimating to the country's culture and customs: if I had landed directly in Fes, I might have run away and been unable to continue the journey.
Certainly, it is an unmissable destination that will offer you an authentic snapshot of the country, unlike Marrakech, but it's certainly very intense and will leave you with very contrasting memories. For those who have already been, I am curious to know your impressions and what you think! Anyway, in 1 or even 2 days, if you want to take it slower, you will be able to visit it thoroughly!
Let's now look at the itinerary we planned for this third part of our road trip in Morocco!
As you can see on the map below, on the third day of the trip (③) we spent the morning trekking north of Chefchaouen, at the Akchour Waterfalls, and then headed towards Fez around lunchtime, which we reached in about 4 hours by car.
Once we arrived in the city, we checked into our riad and had dinner out before going to rest and recharge our batteries to be able to dedicate ourselves to a thorough exploration of the city the next day.
The fourth day of the trip (④) was entirely spent wandering around Fes, where we stayed for two nights.
On the morning of the fifth day (⑤) we left Fes to head southeast and reach the Erg Chebbi Dunes, near Merzouga (Sahara Desert).
If you want to know more about how to plan your Morocco travel itinerary then READ ALSO: Perfect Morocco itinerary for a 8-days-car trip
Don't miss all the insights on the various stages of this incredible trip:
part 1 - days ① and ② : Discovering Casablanca, Rabat and Meknes
part 2 - day ② and ③ : Chefchaouen, Morocco's Blue Pearl and Akchour Waterfalls
part 4 - day ⑤ : The Dunes of Erg Chebbi, Merzouga Desert
If you have already defined your itinerary and you are now thinking about the more organizational and logistical part of your trip READ ALSO: How to plan a road trip in Morocco in a few simple steps
Fès
Fez has been the capital of Morocco several times throughout history, reaching its peak between 1200-1300 under the Merinid dynasty; it's no longer the capital of the country but remains its cultural and spiritual heart.
Fez is becoming a very popular tourist destination thanks to the new international airport that connects it with many direct flights to/from Europe and being a privileged access point to reach the Merzouga desert, Chefchaouen, Meknes, and Volubilis. Despite this, it has perfectly preserved its essence and ancient, traditional character.
The city is divided into two parts: Fès el-Jedid, or the New City (so to speak), which is the imperial city built from the 1200s onward, where the Royal Palace and the Jewish quarter are located, and the Medina Fès el-Bali, or the Old City. This is the oldest and walled part of Fez, a true labyrinth of streets, over 9000 (imagine getting lost there at night without Google Maps...), full of souks where goods are still transported on donkeys. The ancient fortified city of Fès el-Bali is the largest and best-preserved in the Islamic world and was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1981. The Medina of Fez also holds other records that make it a must-visit on this trip: Fès el-Bali is home to the oldest university in the world, the University of al-Qarawiyyin, founded in 859. Speaking of history, Fez is also home to the oldest tannery in the world.
The most famous and fascinating attractions are mostly concentrated within Fès el-Bali: Tala’a Kebira and Tala’a Sghira are the two main streets that run through the medina, but every alley will reserve incredible surprises. Various souks are scattered throughout Fès el-Bali, and you will find all kinds, colors, and scents.
The only advice I feel like giving you from my experience in Fez is to avoid straying and venturing into the labyrinthine medina at night, and if possible, try not to be lured by locals who will surely try to convince you to let them guide you around: they will ask for hefty tips. Instead, trust only certified and reliable guides.
During the day, orienting yourself is fairly simple: the GPS works occasionally, and you can always follow the hordes of tourists, read signs, and use landmarks such as the souks or shops. At night, everything becomes more difficult because the stalls close, the streets become deserted, and the very weak Google Maps signal won't be enough to get you home, risking putting you in unpleasant and unsafe situations.
If you do not feel comfortable wandering around Fez on your own, I suggest organizing a guided tour: later in the post, I will recommend a very nice one, or you can ask your hotel for the contact of an official guide who can help you discover the city in full tranquility.
For accommodation, I recommend choosing one of the Riads within the medina, preferably not too far from the entrance gates so you can leave your car nearby. Choose a Riad with an in-house kitchen so you have the option to dine there if you wish.
To know where we stayed and all the practical information including accommodation, car rental, flights, etc., READ ALSO: How to plan a road trip in Morocco in a few simple steps
Now let's start our exploration of Fez, starting from the ancient medina!
Chaouwara Tannery
The iconic Chaouwara Tannery is one of the symbols of Fez: with its pungent smell, the large stone vats full of colors, and the animal hides laid out to dry one after another, it's famous worldwide.
The Fez Tannery is the oldest in the world and still uses processes from the 16th century.
To visit it, find one of the entrances, and you will be immediately approached by shopkeepers or "guides" who loiter around and offer to accompany you, as you technically cannot enter alone. Of course, a tip is “extremely appreciated,” and a tour to discover all the leather products they sell is mandatory.
Before entering, you will be offered a bunch of mint leaves: grab it quickly, hold it under your nose, and do not move it until you are out of the tannery. Breathing in the mint will help cover the nauseating smell of rotting flesh and pigeon droppings (used to dye the leather) that permeates the area. After all, here they work with real goat, sheep, camel, and cow leather, using natural products ranging from saffron to guano, from cow urine to poppy flower.
As a tip, you usually leave around 20-50 MAD, and I recommend entering shops number 10 or 64: they have the terraces offering the best views of the tanneries!
It is better to go in the morning when there is more activity, and the visit is more interesting.
The Chaouwara Tannery is undoubtedly one of the most incredible and controversial places in Fez. The visual spectacle it offers is captivating and impressive, but then the smell of rotting flesh, the animal hides laid out everywhere you look... I must admit that as a vegetarian and an animal lover, it was not easy. Another aspect to consider is the questionable safety of this activity, both for the workers and the surrounding environment, as the processing waste ends up in the Oued Fez.
For better or worse, you cannot pass through Fez without visiting the tannery, which undoubtedly offers an intense and contrasting experience.
Al-Attarine Madrasa
The Al-Attarine Madrasa was a Quranic school that housed 60 students until the 20th century and was built in 1324. This Madrasa is named after the adjacent spice and perfume souk of the same name; the entrance fee is 20 MAD per person, and it's definitely worth it.
The building extends around a beautiful fountain located in the center of the courtyard: the interior is sparse but no less interesting. The zellij work (a technique of assembling enameled tiles to create a geometric pattern in a mosaic form) and stucco, alternating with wood inlays, make it a truly unmissable spectacle.
Upstairs, you can visit the tiny rooms where the students lived and get lost in the labyrinth of corridors and passages. Above all, do not miss the view of the city from the small windows, from which you can admire the splendid green rooftops of Fes.
Bou Inania Madrasa
The Bou Inania Madrasa, built in the mid-1300s, includes a residence for students, a mosque, and an Islamic school: it's the only Madrasa in Fez with a minaret.
The interior decorations include inlays of cedar wood, zellij, and a marble entrance courtyard. It's one of the main historical, cultural, and religious sites in the city: it's absolutely one of the must-see places in Fez, especially considering the minimal cost (20 MAD).
Al-Qarawiyyin University and Mosque
The ancient Al-Qarawiyyin Mosque is located within the ancient University of Al-Qarawiyyin and is one of the oldest in the Western Muslim world, having been built in the heart of the Medina of Fez in 859.
Until the construction of the Hassan II Mosque in Casablanca, the Karaouine Mosque was the largest in Morocco. As per tradition, non-Muslims cannot enter this enormous mosque, which can accommodate up to 20,000 worshippers, but often the four doors leading to the courtyard remain open, allowing for a glimpse inside.
Funduq Staouniyyin
The Funduq Staouniyyin is located not far from the Al-Qarawiyyin Mosque and was founded in the 14th century, making it one of the oldest in the city. But what is a Funduq? In Italian, it literally means caravanserai. For those like me who had never heard this word: it is a building typically consisting of a wall enclosing a large courtyard and a portico. The Funduq was used for the stopover of caravans crossing the desert and could also include rooms for travelers.
This Funduq is simply marvelous: full of cedar wood inlays and filled with workshops of local artisans selling extremely interesting pieces.
Place Seffarine and Souk Seffarine
Not far from the Chaouwara Tanneries, between the dyers’ souk and the tanners’ souk, we find the small Seffarine Square, one of the most charming and important in the city.
Seffarine Square hosts the eponymous Seffarine Souk, which is the market for copper and brass workers. Here, the sound of the artisans' hammers sets the rhythm of your steps as you wander among the splendid shops of pots, teapots, trays, and magical lamps.
Henna Souk
The Henna Souk is one of the oldest and also one of the most fascinating in Fes el-Bali: at the center of the market stands a large plane tree among stalls selling ceramics and traditional cosmetics, including henna. This is a great place to buy the natural products that Moroccans use regularly: from soap to argan oil. The street vendors are very friendly and willing to negotiate prices!
Place Nejjarine: Nejjarine Fountain, Nejjarine Souk, and Museum of Wooden Arts and Crafts
After Seffarine Square, Place Nejjarine is one of the most picturesque: it is the carpenters' square, overlooking which is the Museum of Wooden Arts and Crafts. The museum is inside an old funduq and is considered a UNESCO World Heritage Site: it houses a collection of traditional wooden objects and can be visited for a cost of 20 MAD per person.
Also in Place Nejjarine is the splendid and famous Nejjarine Fountain: one of the most fascinating in the city thanks to its extraordinary decorations.
In case you didn't know, Fez is famous for its fountains: there are many scattered throughout the city (over 60 in the medina alone), all meticulously decorated with colors and geometric patterns. The Fassi (inhabitants of Fez) have always been passionate about hydraulic engineering: as early as 1,000 years ago, rivers were diverted, lakes were created, and extensive networks of canals were built to supply water to the city.
Rainbow Street Art
Rainbow Street Art is one of the most beloved spots in Fès: it is the most colorful street in the medina and connects the two main streets, Tala’a Sghira and Tala’a Kabira.
The idea was conceived by Mohssine Naji, a painter, and some of his friends who decorated the street, Derb Lmzdaa Tahti, by painting the walls, and tiles, and hanging many of his paintings along with carpets and fabrics. The final effect is like walking through a rainbow of colors, hence the name! Don’t miss it and make sure to visit, as they have wonderful and colorful art pieces!
Bab Boujloud
Considered the most beautiful gate of the Medina of Fès, Bab Boujloud is the most imposing entrance to Fès el-Bali.
It's a majestic monumental gate decorated with blue glazed ceramic tiles on the outer façade and green on the inner side, in Moorish-Andalusian style.
Bab Boujloud is relatively recent compared to the surrounding area, having been built in 1913 by the French general Hubert Lyautey, replacing the original 12th-century entrance which is still visible.
This is the starting point for almost all walking tours of Fès el-Bali: the surrounding area, formed by the two main streets Tala’a Sghira and Tala’a Kebira, is rich with stalls, restaurants, and cafes.
Royal Palace - Dar el Makhzen
The Royal Palace of Fès (Dar el Makhzen) is located in the New City of Fès el-Jedid and is a must-see spectacle.
It is one of the largest and oldest royal palaces in the world, but unfortunately, it is not open for internal visits. However, you can admire it from the outside: the magnificent entrance gate in Place des Alouites is breathtaking.
The entrance gate to the Royal Palace of Fès consists of 7 bronze portals, artisanally crafted and surrounded by mosaics of tiles in the classic blue and green that are associated with Fès and Islam.
Jnan Sbil Park
The public gardens of Jnan Sbil are also located in the New City of Fès el-Jedid: they are a true oasis of greenery, a place to find some peace and refuge from the frenetic alleys of the medina.
The park was created towards the end of the 19th century but reopened to the public in 2011 after being renovated: today it hosts more than 3000 species of plants and has beautiful fountains and pools.
Marinid Tombs
The Marinid Tombs are an archaeological area north of the Medina of Fès: they are the ruins of the giant royal mausoleums where some members of the Marinid dynasty, which ruled over Fès and Morocco from 1248 to 1465, are buried. The necropolis dates back to the 16th century and is located on a hill that overlooks the imperial city.
After long years of conquests and looting, the tombs have lost most of their original stunning decorations, but visiting these giants is worthwhile for the panorama over the city.
Below the tombs lie the remains of the old city walls of Fez, dating back to the 12th century.
Walking Tour of Fès el-Bali
If you are interested in a guided tour of the medina of Fès, let me suggest a splendid visit with a local guide who will accompany you to discover the wonders of this city (the tour is in English).
The tour lasts 3 hours and costs €19 per person.
This tour is bookable on the Civitatis platform – book your guided tour of the Medina of Fès.
The meeting point is the main entrance of Lycée Moulay Idriss, where the walking tour begins, including the must-see Blue Gate, the main entrance to the Medina of Fès. Then you will head towards the Al-Attarine Madrasa and the Bou Inania Madrasa, which you will visit inside.
The tour then continues to Talaa Kebira and Talaa Seguira, two important commercial arteries, leading to the Mausoleum of Mulay Idris, one of the most sacred places.
The next stop will be in front of the Al Karaouine Mosque, followed by a walk through the Medina in search of ancient souks and squares, ending at the oldest tannery in the city: Sidi Moussa. Finally, you will arrive at Place Seffarine.
Moroccan Cooking Class in Fès
Usually, when time permits, Enri and I love to take a typical cooking class when we travel, especially if we adore the local dishes as much as we do in Morocco.
As always, I did some research before leaving, studying the various possibilities to understand when and where to take the class during our road trip in Morocco.
After considering the various options, the most sensible choices were Fès or Marrakech; we chose Fès for economic reasons (this type of activity was significantly more expensive in Marrakech) and for travel timing.
After exploring various options online, I decided to book a Moroccan cooking class on Tripadvisor (I confess it was my first time using it for booking – I usually only use it to review and find reviews). I chose the Fez Cooking Class at Riad Hayat Fes, about a 10-minute walk from the Riad where we were staying.
I must say the booking process was quick and easy, with free cancellation up to a couple of days before the chosen date and payment due two days prior.
We paid €32 each for a class that included preparing a complete menu with appetizers and a main course (with a vegetarian menu option), a mint tea tasting, and finally, dinner at the Riad featuring all the dishes we prepared ourselves (drinks and bread included).
Duration: approximately 4 hours.
We prepared Zaalouk and Taktouka as appetizers, served with typical Moroccan bread, followed by vegetarian couscous and a chicken tagine with lemon and olives.
The class was extremely interesting and fun: we were guided by a lovely lady and her two grandchildren who helped with translation and assistance. It felt like cooking with our grandmother. Excellent value for money (cooking class + dinner) and I highly recommend it as an unmissable activity to fully immerse yourself in the country and its culinary traditions.
Where to eat in Fès
In the Fès el Bali Medina, there are many very interesting and affordable little restaurants compared to the average you might find in Marrakech. Generally, I would recommend trying new places for lunch, while for dinner, unless you have a place nearby your Riad, I would suggest staying in for dinner. As I mentioned earlier, Fès becomes less suitable for tourists wandering alone through the labyrinth of alleys in the Medina at night. Speaking from experience, you don't want to get lost in the dark in those narrow and tall alleys where GPS doesn't work. That said, here are some very interesting options I suggest.
Chez Rachid is where we had dinner on our first night: a tiny, extremely typical and traditional place with excellent value for money. I can't recommend it enough in every aspect.
Cafe Clock, Al Oud and Le Tarbouche are three other spots I had noted down after numerous recommendations during my research: they are all close to each other, and I checked them out personally while in Fès. If we had more time in the city, they would definitely have been our choices!
Don't miss all the insights on the various stages of this incredible trip:
part 1 - days ① and ② : Discovering Casablanca, Rabat and Meknes
part 2 - day ② and ③ : Chefchaouen, Morocco's Blue Pearl and Akchour Waterfalls
part 4 - day ⑤ : The Dunes of Erg Chebbi, Merzouga Desert
Stay updated on upcoming posts about our next stops on the road in Morocco and the in-depth look at Moroccan cuisine. In the meantime, here’s an overview of the entire Itinerary: READ ALSO: Perfect Morocco itinerary for a 8-days-car trip
If you are planning your trip to Morocco, don't miss the article with all the tips and tricks to organize a perfect road trip in this beautiful country. You will find information about flights, accommodations, car rentals, parking, fuel, and many other useful tips here READ ALSO: How to plan a road trip in Morocco in a few simple steps
Did you just book a trip to Morocco but don't know where to start planning your time there? Then, let me present to you my digital map of the country which includes: Casablanca, Rabat, Meknes, Chefchaouen, Fez, Merzouga, the Street of a Thousand Kasbahs and Marrakech.
Thanks to this map you will be able to build your entire road trip in Morocco.
This is a private map on Google Maps on which you will find:
more than 100 places to visit including the best souks, madrasas and museums
the best photo spots
attractions and activities customized based on my experience
where to stay overnight and where to park the car
where to eat (restaurants, cafes, and much more)
To receive the map for FREE, you can choose one of these two ways:
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For any questions or further information do not hesitate to write to me either in the comments or in private.
Have a nice trip!
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